Real Trains, Model Trains and Test Match Special

"What on earth does "Test Match Special" have to do with Trains both real and model?" I hear some of you ask. Well today I took the day off work for reasons to be expanded on later. But this morning a sat down to make some P4 track Co. flexible track using fast their track bases and rail, whilst listening to the aforementioned "TMS". These bases are a section of 8 sleepers with chairs that you have to thread the rail onto. I reality there isn't a more practical way to get flexible track over to the US of A. The rail was sent to me in half metre lengths which used 6 fast track base sections. It was a very easy relaxing task that didn't take long to do and I now have 4 metres of P4 flexible track ready to go. The only way things could have been any better was if some more Australian wickets had fallen.

However the true purpose of my day off was to catch the SP No. 4449 Daylight as it came through Minnesota on its way to a Train festival in Michigan. It doesn't really matter if the train is English, American or whatever. There is something quite majestic about a preserved steam loco at speed on a main line.

Hope you like the picture.

Make your point...

Feeling rather pleased with myself today. I just completed my first P4 Track Co. kit for a A6 right handed turnout.

In all honesty I have to say that I don't know what I was worried about. Yes, the instructions are daunting at first look. But read them a few times, identify all the parts and follow them to the letter as you build and you will be rewarded with a realistic looking piece of railway track.

Now I don't want to bore anyone with a full on review of the kit or a "how I blew my nose" description of the construction. Just a few observations.

Firstly, I was really impressed when I pulled the kit out of the parcel all very neatly packaged in a clear plastic box. You could see all the bits and pieces without opening things up.

Then, when it came to the instructions I will freely admit I was quite daunted at the prospect of what I had set myself up to do. The instructions are very detailed but do guide you through every step of the way. I read the instructions several times before starting, and still followed them as I built it. This however did not stop me missing the placement of the crossing chairs out. I ended up sticking them in place just before I put the curved stock rail in.

Really though construction is a breeze. No more difficult than an Airfix model kit. All the advice you need to assemble the kit is in the instructions.

Before I started on assembly I decided to solder dropper wires onto the switchblade and vee constructions. My soldering abilities are not the greatest and I thought there would be less chance of melting chairs if I did that first. Next time I think I will try to solder dropper wires to the rails before assembly too.

My confidence grew as I progressed along. I was excited to get the job finished. Then as that time approached I tested things out. I found one of my wagons and nervously pushed it through the pointwork along both roads...

Perfect! No derailments. No bumps or lurches.

That makes you feel good.

With this boost to my confidence in my abilities I feel ready to start on a layout...

The perfect argument for adopting finescale standards

"Why should I model finescale?"

That is a question that many modellers have asked themselves at sometime wether it be Scale Seven, P4, 3mm or 2mm. Some have turned their backs on it and others have faced up to it.

If you're wavering and need convincing, take a look at these films Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4.

Yes, it's of an American prototype but that should not detract from your enjoyment of what is some very atmospheric filming.

The films follow the shunting of a train at the Hull-Oaks sawmill in Oregon. All done by a driver and his remote controlled locomotive. Each segment is about 10 minutes long so you might want to settle down with a nice hot cuppa and some choccy biccies or a glass of your favourite tipple as you watch this.

All you need do is look at the wheels and the track. Look at the weight of the rail. Most tellingly look at the flanges and treads on the wheels. You won't miss them, there are plenty of studied shots of them. Never again will you be happy with ordinary 00 or Ho standards. That kind of track and wheels just does not look like this. If my Ho scale layout Oneota Yard did not have an exhibition booked in less than a month then quite honestly I would probably be ripping the track up and starting again and working to P87 standards.

If you are going to build a model railway that you are going look at like these videos have been filmed, then you have no choice but to go finescale.

Really.

Do it.

Now...

Stage 1 passed.

Stage 1 of my finescale 4mm project has been passed. Over the past few nights I have been working away making a C&L turnout kit in EM gauge.

The point of this project was to see if I had the techniques to make a turnout kit that worked. I opted for EM because I had the kits and the gauges to hand. It doesn't look like much. The check rails look a bit iffy and the glue joints are a bit visible but I built the point with no real problems and wheels run though it! So the next stage is to order some P4 gauges and a point kit and see if I can do that as well. The techniques will improve with practice.

The end result is good enough to give me some confidence

Trackwork part 1

Whilst rummaging around in some boxes from our aborted house move from last year I happened upon a pair of C&L Finescale point kits in EM from a long aborted Holyhead Breakwater project. So I figured what better way to re-introduce myself to finescale 4mm than to have a go and build one. That way I would see if have the ability to put together finescale trackwork. I used to solder up EM gauge points quite easily. I have never glued up a C&L point before. If I can make one with no real problems in EM then I'll have a bash in P4.

This kit is sold as a "turnout in a bag" with everything you need to make a point, and I do mean everything (except glue) track gauges are even included, to enable you to make an EM gauge turnout. So on the way home from work I stopped in at my local hardware store who just happened to have some Methyl Ethyl Ketone, the solvent/glue needed to stick the components together, on the shelf. Though the one quart tin they sold me is probably a lifetimes supply. I'm looking forward to having a go. I'll report back, though before I start I need to go down to the health club and do a half hour hill workout on the "dreadmill" as part of my marathon training.